The warm weather is fast approaching, and I've finished the pattern for girls for a super summer dress. If you're looking for a simple guide on how to sew a summer dress with an open back, this is the right guide and the right pattern for you.
This pattern is very easy to sew and doesn't require special knowledge. You sew the bodice, no sleeves, just a two-piece skirt. The skirt is a half-circle, so it spins beautifully. Kids absolutely love that. You sew what are called "straps," which are cords that I like to sew on the machine and cut from fabrics I have. But you can also make it easier by buying knitted strips, and if you have a binding attachment, it's even simpler. But it's not a necessity.
Let's take a look at what you'll need to sew these beautiful midi dresses for summer sunbathing.
What will you need?
- Elastic knit fabric for sewing dresses - consumption depends on the child's height, but for smaller children, about 1 meter of fabric will probably be enough, and for older children, 1.30 meters.
- Binding strip 3 cm wide, length according to the pattern - This can be a purchased knit binding, or you can cut it from any knit fabric you have at home that matches the dress color.
- Threads - regular polyester threads for overlock machine
- Needles - for machine, according to the knit fabric (70 or 80 stretch, ball point)
- Sewing machine - I recommend sewing on an overlock machine, but you can also sew them on a multi-functional machine. You can find an article from me on how to choose a home sewing machine for beginners.
- Binder attachment - You can have one, but it's not necessary. This is great if you're already experienced in sewing. It significantly speeds up the work.
- Fabric scissors
- Pins or fabric clips
- Sublimation marker or tailor's chalk
You can find the Molly summer dress pattern here - sizes 74 to 164
What fabrics are suitable for summer dresses?
My favorite fabrics for sewing children's dresses are definitely knits. They adapt well to their bodies and help hide any small inaccuracies in sewing.
I personally recommend lighter knits under 200 g. They are smoother, lighter, and more breathable. Organic fabrics are also a great choice, but definitely stick to around the 200 g mark when choosing. I wouldn't go for any sweatshirt fabric, waffle fabric, or even other knitted fabrics.
On the other hand, modal and lightweight viscose knits will be great.
Check out these favorite e-shops of mine:
Sewing instructions
Assemble the pattern according to the instructions. You can find instructions on how to assemble PDF patterns here. Select the correct size. I recommend looking at the size chart and not randomly sewing a size based on a number. That's a common mistake.
You need to measure the basic dimensions directly on the child. First, measure the total height, then measure the chest width (needed to select the correct bodice size), and finally, the length from the waist to the knees, to get an idea of the size and length of the skirt you need.
Once you know what size you need, transfer it to baking paper and you can start cutting the fabrics. Don't forget to position the grainline correctly. The instructions also include information on how to position the grainline.
We cut:
1 x Back piece - cut on the fold
1 X Front piece - cut on the fold
2 x half-circle skirt pieces
1 x binding piece B - cut on the fold
1 x binding piece A
And let's move on to the first sewing step.
1. First, sew the front and back pieces together at the sides. Sew on an overlock machine or with an overlock stitch.
2. Now sew both skirt pieces together again at the sides. Sew on an overlock machine or with an overlock stitch.
3. Turn the bodice right side out. Insert it into the skirt opening, right side to right side. Pin the side seams together. The circumference will match perfectly.
5. Sew these two pieces together on an overlock machine or with overlock stitches.
6. Sew binding piece A, right sides together, to the side for binding A.
7. Now manually bind the side of the bodice. As shown in the picture, turn the seam towards the binding. Fold the loose side of the binding in half exactly to the seam.
9. Now fold the created binding over the entire seam, hiding it. Pin or clip the binding to keep it straight. Slightly stretch the entire binding while preparing it for binding.
11. Now topstitch the binding about 0.3 mm from the edge. Sew on the right side. Prepare the second binding. If you have one piece, sew from one piece of binding. If you don't have a long enough piece for the entire binding, you can sew it from two shorter pieces.
13. Now, prepare the binding again along the entire length of the back piece and across the front side panels as drawn in the pattern. Again, gently stretch the binding during preparation.
15. Sew the binding again simply on an overlock machine or with an overlock stitch. Just like with binding A, fold the created binding over the seam to hide it. Pay attention to where binding A and B meet.
17. I'll prepare the binding folded together along the entire length until the end of the binding. This will then serve as the straps for tying around the neck. Now we'll topstitch the binding again, approximately 0.3 mm from the edge, sewing on the right side of the binding. That is, the nice side facing you. The side that should be visible.
19. Sew slowly so that the bottom part doesn't slip out of the stitching. I recommend increasing the presser foot pressure. Sew to the end, then secure the ends of the cords with stitching tightly at the edge. Knot them.
The last step is to hem the skirt. Hem the skirt by 1.5 or 2 cm, depending on how wide you want the hem. I hem by 2 cm, and that's okay for me. Before hemming, I either overlock the skirt on an overlock machine and then stitch it with a twin needle, or I choose another elastic stitch on the machine. But it must be elastic.
If you have one, stitch the skirt hem on a coverlock machine. And with that, you're done!
