How to Sew Softshell Pants for a Child - A Step-by-Step Guide

Do you want to sew softshell pants but are afraid to? This guide will walk you through the whole process!

Softshell pants are the most practical clothing for children – waterproof, windproof, and durable. And the best part?

You can sew them at home! In this guide, I'll show you how to do it step-by-step, even if you've never sewn softshell before.

✅ What will you need?

Material:

• Softshell - 100-150 cm (depending on child's size)

• Winter softshell (with fleece) - for winter

• Spring softshell (without fleece) - for spring/autumn

• Grammage: 280-350 g/m²

• Width: 150 cm

• Ribbing for waistband - 20-30 cm (rib knit or jersey knit)

• Ribbing for trouser legs - 30-40 cm (optional)

• Elastic for waistband - 2-3 cm wide, length according to waist circumference

Tools:

• Sewing machine with straight stitch

• Needle for thick materials - a stretch needle size 70/80 or universal 80 works well

• Polyester thread - classic non-elastic

• Fabric scissors

• Fabric clips or clamps (pins will damage softshell)

• Measuring tape

• Tailor's chalk or disappearing fabric marker

• Safety pin (for threading elastic)

Pattern:

I recommend using a high-quality PDF pattern with instructions. For example, the EASY softshell pants are designed specifically for beginners and include a video tutorial and step-by-step photo instructions.

📐 Step 1: Preparation and purchasing softshell

Which softshell to buy?

Winter softshell (with fleece inside):

• Thicker, warm

• Ideal for temperatures -5°C to 10°C

• Suitable for winter

Spring softshell (without fleece):

• Thinner, lighter

• Ideal for temperatures 5°C to 15°C

• Suitable for spring and autumn

Where to buy: Online fabric shops (Yháček, Dům látek, Takoy)

💡 Tip: For your first attempt, choose patterned softshell - minor inaccuracies won't be as visible on it.

📄 Step 2: Printing and preparing the pattern

1. Print the PDF pattern on a standard A4 printer (or at a copy center on A1)

2. Check the test square - it must be exactly 5x5 cm

3. Tape the papers together according to the instructions (if printing A4)

4. Cut out the pattern pieces

5. Select the correct size according to the child's height

💡 Tip: If the child is between sizes, choose the larger one - softshell is a loose fit.

 

✂️ Step 3: Cutting the softshell

1. You don't need to pre-wash softshell or do anything similar; you can cut it directly

2. Lay the softshell on the table - right side up

3. Secure the pattern with a heavy weight

4. Draw the outlines with tailor's chalk or a fabric marker

5. Add 1 cm for seams (if not included in the pattern)

6. Cut out the pieces with sharp fabric scissors

⚠️ Important: Softshell has a right and wrong side - the outer side is smooth, and the inner is fuzzy or fleece-like. Be careful to position all pieces correctly.

🧵 Step 4: Setting up the sewing machine

Important settings for softshell:

• Needle: Stretch - often better than Universal, but try both. Size 70/80

• Thread: Polyester (not cotton)

• Stitch length: 3-3.5 mm (longer than for knit fabric)

• Speed: Sew SLOWER than for knit fabric

• Presser foot pressure: Normal to slightly increased

💡 Tip: Test the stitch on a scrap piece of softshell before sewing.

👖 Step 5: Sewing the pants step-by-step

A) Sewing the inner leg seams

1. Take both front leg pieces and join them at the crotch - sew them

2. Then repeat the same for the other pair of back leg pieces

3. You can flatten the seams with topstitching over the seam from the right side

Sew on an overlocker or with a classic straight stitch. The stitch length for joining is rather smaller - a three is ideal. But you can further reduce the spacing and sew with a two.

B) Sewing the trouser legs

1. Sew the sides of the trouser legs by placing the front pieces onto the back pieces right sides together

2. Align the crotch seams

3. Pin with clips

4. Sew the crotch

5. Sew this seam SLOWLY and CAREFULLY - it's the most important seam!

 

C) Attaching the waistband ribbing

1. Measure the waist circumference of the pants

2. Sew the ribbing 10-15% shorter (to ensure a snug fit)

3. Sew the ribbing into a circle

4. Fold the ribbing in half (right side out)

5. Pin to the waist of the pants (4 points - front, back, sides)

6. Stretch the ribbing evenly while sewing

You can use elastic, but you don't have to. It's a safeguard against the pants constantly falling down if the ribbing stretches out. I use it for older, very active children. In this case, I cut the elastic so that it's comfortable around the child's waist but still holds, and then sew it together. Before sewing the ribbing to the pants, I insert the elastic into the ribbing to hide it inside. Then, I later secure it with two stitches on the sides to prevent it from shifting or twisting.

D) Finishing the trouser legs

Option 1: With ribbing (recommended)

1. Measure the circumference of the trouser leg

2. Sew the ribbing 10% shorter

3. Attach it the same way as the waistband

Option 2: Without ribbing (simpler)

1. Fold the trouser leg hem by 2 cm

2. Sew with a twin needle or zigzag stitch

⏱️ How long does it take?

Time estimate:

• Preparation and cutting: 45-60 minutes

• Sewing: 2-3 hours (first item)

• Total: 3-4 hours

Second pair of pants: Only 2 hours! It will get faster with practice.

 

💡 Tips and tricks for success

Before sewing:

• Test the stitch on a scrap piece of softshell

• Use clips instead of pins

• Check the needle - it must be sharp and strong

While sewing:

• Sew SLOWER than for knit fabric

• Do not stretch the fabric - let the machine feed it itself

• Check the wrong side - to ensure the fleece isn't getting caught

• Pay attention to thickness - softshell is thicker at the seams

After sewing:

• DO NOT IRON! - ironing will damage softshell

• Check all seams - to ensure they hold

• Try on the child - to check the fit

❌ Common beginner mistakes

1. Using pins
Pins will leave PERMANENT holes in softshell! Always use clips or clamps.

2. Skipped stitches
It's necessary to try Stretch or Universal needles. Sometimes sewers use needles that are too thick, like 90 and 100, which tends to pierce the softshell more, and the stitch still doesn't interlock properly.

3. Ironing softshell
Softshell should NOT be ironed! High temperatures will damage the waterproof layer.

4. Stitch too long
The stitch for sewing softshell should be dense to prevent moisture and cold from passing through.

5. Sewing too fast
Softshell is thicker than knit fabric - sew slower to allow the machine to keep up.

 

🧼 How to care for softshell pants?

• Washing: 30-40°C, no fabric softener

• Drying: Air dry, NOT in a dryer

• Ironing: NEVER!

• Cleaning: Usually just wipe with a damp cloth

• Impregnation: You can re-impregnate after approximately 20 washes

🎨 Inspiration: What colors to choose?

Practical dark colors:

• Black - most practical, dirt isn't visible

• Dark blue - classic

• Dark green - natural

• Grey - versatile

Cheerful colors:

• Red - striking, visible

• Turquoise - fresh

• Purple - popular with girls

• Orange - visible in the forest

💡 Tip: Sew 2-3 pairs in different colors - you'll have options to rotate!

 

📚 Need more help?

If you're a beginner and want to be sure:

• EASY pattern with video tutorial - watch the video and sew along

• "How to sew on an overlocker" course - learn the basics

• Šibabi.cz FB group - ask other mothers

 

✨ Conclusion: You can do it!

Sewing softshell pants isn't difficult when you have the right instructions and a quality pattern. Yes, softshell is a bit different from knit fabric, but with our tips, you'll manage!

Start today:

1. Download the EASY pattern with video tutorial

2. Purchase softshell (100-150 cm)

3. Play the video and sew step-by-step

4. In 3-4 hours you will have finished pants!

And once you sew your first pair of pants, you'll be proud of yourself! The second pair will be much faster. 💪

Have questions? Join our FB group Šibabi.cz, where we'll be happy to help!